Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Escape from Cusco - fail

With minimal fuss I found the route out of Cusco, Peru, but while climbing the hills on the western edge of town noises started coming from the back wheel. It was a collection of clacking and scrapping sounds. A check of the chain revealed the tension was correct. Inspection of the front and back sprocket showed all of the teeth in good health. At this point I was joined by two riders from Spain. Testing the back wheel by pushing the wheel side to side produced wobble. The wheel was not properly fixed to the axel, demonstrating "play" on the left side. The Spaniards gracious help remove the tire, to see if various parts had been reassembled correctly after the Honda dealer installed a new tire. Indeed the source of the looseness was on the left side of the internal part around the axel. One tube like part was flipped and the wheel assembly put back together. The fix seemed to work, but soon the noises return along with wobbliness in the back tire. The wheel was no properly seated on the axle.

Saying goodbye to the Spaniards, I limped by to the Honda dealer in Cusco. Soon the mechanics had the back wheel off and internal parts disassembled with alarming speed.

My impression was they were mechanic monkeys, yanking apart the guts of the wheel with abandon. The diagnosis was bearings. Indeed some of the bearings were split in two and another was deformed. They claimed to be able to find replacement bearings in Cusco with research and by taking the wheel to find an exact match.

I went to lunch and when I returned I found the work bay empty and my tire sitting on the shop floor. The mechanics had gone for lunch, a Latin lunch. See you in an hour and a half or two...or three as it turned out. At this moment I am waiting...and hoping. Fearing the worst, I imagined that the boys would fail to be able to find a set of bearings that would fit and the shredded gaskets would allude their search. My mind started spinning with options, have the parts sent from Lima or take the tire to Lima by night bus.  I would give Honda until closing, then take extreme measures as needed.
On the upside, while I was waiting, I had a lovely lomo sandwich and pitcher of mixa jugo for lunch. Later I stopped for a Coke at a rock in' fish restaurant, but I wasn't in the mood for a big meal. Sadly they are only open during the day.

The mechanics returned and got to work. Shortly two of them rolled the wheel down the street a bearing vendor. A little while later one of the mechanics when up the street with a gasket in his hand. I went heads down editing video clips and writing blog posts. After an hour and a half I was approached. Fearing the worst, instead I was asked to test drive the bike. Checking tire for wobble, none was to be found. Drove down the block and back, all is good. I felt bad about thinking of the guys at Honda as mechanic monkeys, cause these guys rock.
So, I am back at the same hostel the I love and will get an earlier start in them morning for Nazca.




Cusco Two Degrees of Separation

I returned to the Wild Rover Hostel the day after St. Patrick's Day. One of the owners of the hostel generously agree to store my motorcycle in their entrance overnight. The night before I rode 7 hours back from Macchu Picchu, in rain, fog and 40 degree temperatures. Add wet to wind chill, it's not pretty. Wet from head to toe and shivering, I pulled up to the Wild Rover. I was on a mission to share a photo I had taken earlier that day at Macchu Picchu. I had borrowed a foam football with Guinness printed on it from the bar. Now I wanted to share the photo and have a pour of Jack Daniels to warm up.

New peak appears at Macchu Picchu on St. Patrick's Day

Thirty minutes at the bar and hostel, and that was it for me. To say I was "toast" would be a mixed metaphor. A slamming party held no attraction. A hot shower and warm bed called. At that hour my garage was closed, so my options were limited and situation dire. My request came at a very busy time for an Irish hostel, 1:00 AM on St. Patrick's Day, with a raging party going on. Many thanks to Wild Rover for rising to the occasion and helping me out.

So, back to the day after... hanging at the hostel I chatted with Conner, who I had met a few days earlier and consumed a Peruvian beer with Philly Cheese Steak sandwich. I usually am reluctant to order a cheese steak more than 50 miles from Philadelphia. Get too far from Philly and they just don't get it right. No way could Wild Rover match the bread, so I gave that ingredient a free pass in advance. That said, the meat, cheese and onions were spot on. Good fries and coleslaw too.


Here is the kicker. I talked with two young guys, Dan & Jon Littauer, that were work at the bar. When your are traveling, the most frequently asked question is, "where are you from?" In this case their answer was Boston. I replied that my daughter Megan, son-in-law Matt Belson and grandson Archer live in Cohasset, a town just south of Boston. A big big smiles, they went to high school with Matt! What are the chances of that? Too funny.

Dan and Jon Littauer at Wild Rover, Cusco, Peru

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Macchu Picchu

There are two way to get to Macchu Picchu. Take a bus, then the PeruRail train from Cusco or hike. Some people take on the Inka Trail, a multi- day experience. I decided to ride the highways to Santa Maria, then climb the dirt mountain roads to Santa Teresa for the night. The road from Santa Maria was hair raising. It reminded me of the Death Road of Bolivia, but rougher and with less traffic. There were several swollen stream, each increasingly tested my courage and resolve to make it across.

The next morning its a short ride further to the hydroelectric plant, 20 minutes from Santa Teresa, where motorcycles can be stored for 5 Peruvian Soles a day. Next, a hike along the train tracks for 11 kilometers to Aguas Calientes, the town the lies in the valley below Macchu Picchu.

Along the way there is a raging river, birds, jungle, rail road bridges, hostels, small restaurants, a camp ground or two and an assortment of international backpackers.

The Rio Urubama is incredibly power force. I jokingly said to myself, “Surf’s up!” In fact, it would be certain death to anyone that went into these waters.

And there are snails along the way too.
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Some choose to take the train from the hydro-electric plant. Here is the schedule (as of March 17, 2013) The service is limited. I went the wrong way out of Santa Teresa and lost 40 minutes going to a little village that is not on the way to Macchu Picchu. That lost time made me miss the 1:30 PM train back to the hydro-electric plant, so I walk back, another 11 kilometers…
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Entrance to the Macchu Picchu archeological site is limited to 3500 people a day. When I bought my ticket onsite, over 3000 tickets had been sold. In  high season get your ticket in advance. From Aguas Calientes some brave souls hike 45 minutes up the steep road to the site. A hike up the final leg to Macchu Picchu is not just a workout, it’s a test of nerves. There are buses constantly moving tourist up and down the switch back roads, and they waste no time moving bodies up and down that slope. The line from Steely Dan’s Don’t take me Alive, comes to mind, “Luckless pedestrian…” I elected to buy a bus ticket.

Classic Macchu Picchu photo with tourist
Peru - Maccchu Picchu - the money shot
Classic Macchu Picchu photo without tourist